what is the active ingredient in alkaline permanents

Charlotte

3 min read

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28-02-2025

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Alkaline perms, also known as cold waves, are a popular hair styling method offering long-lasting curls and waves. But what exactly makes them work? The magic lies in the active ingredient: ammonium thioglycolate (ATG). This chemical compound is the key to breaking and reforming the hair's disulfide bonds, creating the desired curl pattern. Understanding its role is crucial to knowing how alkaline perms function and what to expect.

Understanding Ammonium Thioglycolate (ATG)

Ammonium thioglycolate is a reducing agent. In the context of perming, this means it weakens the strong disulfide bonds that hold the hair's protein structure together. These bonds are essential for hair's shape and strength. By breaking them, ATG allows the hair to be reshaped into curls or waves. This process is essential for achieving the desired permanent styling effect.

How ATG Works in Alkaline Perms

The alkaline pH of the perm solution (typically around 9.0-9.5) plays a crucial role. This high pH swells the hair shaft, making it more porous and allowing better penetration of the ATG. Once inside, ATG breaks the disulfide bonds, leaving the hair's structure more malleable and receptive to reshaping. The rollers or rods then set the new curl pattern.

The Role of pH in the Process

The alkaline environment is not simply a facilitator; it's essential for ATG's effectiveness. A neutral or acidic pH would significantly hinder ATG's ability to break the disulfide bonds. The precise pH is carefully controlled to balance effective bond-breaking with minimizing hair damage. Too high a pH can cause excessive damage. Too low, and the perm won't work.

The Neutralizing Step: Rebuilding the Bonds

After the hair is shaped with rollers, a neutralizing solution is applied. This solution typically contains hydrogen peroxide or another oxidizing agent. The neutralizer's job is to reform the broken disulfide bonds in their new, curled configuration, effectively "setting" the perm. This step is critical for the long-lasting effect of the perm. Without it, the curls would simply fall out.

Safety Precautions and Considerations

While ATG is the active ingredient, alkaline perms also contain other ingredients to condition and protect the hair. However, it's important to remember that ATG is a chemical, and improper use can cause damage. Always follow the manufacturer's instructions carefully, and consider a patch test before a full application to check for allergic reactions.

Other Ingredients in Alkaline Perm Solutions

Although ATG is the primary active ingredient, alkaline perm solutions often include other components. These additives can include:

• Conditioners: To help minimize damage and improve hair manageability.
• Surfactants: To improve the solution's spreading and penetration.
• Fragrances: To mask the strong odor of ATG.
• Thickeners: To help maintain the solution's consistency.

These additional components contribute to the overall performance and user experience of the product, but ATG remains the crucial active ingredient responsible for the chemical restructuring of the hair.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)

**Q: Are alkaline perms damaging to hair?**

A: Alkaline perms can be damaging if not applied correctly or if the hair is already compromised. Following the manufacturer's instructions and using appropriate aftercare products can help minimize damage.

**Q: How long do alkaline perms last?**

A: The longevity of an alkaline perm depends on several factors, including hair type, aftercare, and the specific perm solution used. Generally, they last several weeks or months before needing a touch-up.

**Q: What are the alternatives to alkaline perms?**

A: Acid perms are a gentler alternative, using a lower pH and a different active ingredient. However, acid perms generally don't create as strong or long-lasting curls.

Conclusion

In conclusion, ammonium thioglycolate (ATG) is the active ingredient that drives the process of alkaline perms. Its ability to break and reform disulfide bonds, in conjunction with the alkaline pH of the solution and the subsequent neutralizing step, allows for the creation of long-lasting curls and waves. Understanding this process is key to achieving successful and safe results when using alkaline perms. Remember to always follow the manufacturer’s instructions and prioritize hair health.